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The Perfect Wave
Article

The Perfect Wave

A scientist and a surfer team up to convert a landlocked lake into The Endless Summer dream

Science, 2017

自动生成的音频
自动生成的音频

Editorial Rating

9

Qualities

  • Scientific
  • Visionary
  • Inspiring

Recommendation

If you surf, you’ve probably dreamed of the perfect break: consistent, close to home, and empty except for a few good friends. But have you ever taken it a step further and imagined controlling the shape and size of the wave? That god-like privilege eluded mere mortals until pro surfer Kelly Slater teamed up with fluid mechanics specialist Adam Fincham to create a landlocked endless summer. getAbstract recommends Jon Cohen’s article to surfers who want to know how science has changed their sport forever, and to anyone whose desire to surf was thwarted by a lack of proximity to the ocean.

Take-Aways

  • The ocean is an inconsistent playing field, making it difficult to schedule surfing competitions.
  • Supercomputer simulations, an adjustable hydrofoil and an artificial reef eventually created the perfect wave.
  • “Kelly’s wave” will no doubt change the future of professional surfing.

About the Author

Jon Cohen is a staff writer for Science magazine. He’s also written for The New Yorker, Smithsonian, Wired and Surfer.


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